Workshop jigs can provide that second and third set of hands you have been wishing for in the workshop. They can also assist in achieving complex tasks and jobs on the tablesaw, drill press or router table.
Do not accept workpiece chip-out on your tablesaw. Instead, eliminate it by using a zero-clearance insert for every cut you make. A shop-made zero clearance insert replaces your tablesaws factory-supplied throat plate, and its wide gap that allows unsupported wood fibers to tear away during a cut.
Cutting sandpaper to size for power sanders and sanding blocks becomes a lot easier when you use this jig to both measure the paper, and cut it straight in one quick move. You can alter step widths to accommodate custom sanding blocks you might use in your shop.
For cutting long or wide stock on your tablesaw, this simple jig is like having another pair of hands. With a long, wide base securely anchored to a 20 inch long miter gauge slot guide bar, this crosscut sled provides a lot more workpiece support than a standard miter gauge. And it is so inexpensive and easy to build that every tablesaw should have one.
This miter-cutting sled offers a dual-rail guidance system that rides in the miter-gauge slots of your tablesaw and smooth-acting stops that ride in tracks. It also features a safety channel down the middle to keep your hands away from the tablesaw blade.
When used for alignment purposes, chamfered dowels insert more easily. The chamfered ends also create glue space for strong dowel joints. This simple jig allows you to create evenly chamfered ends time after time.
Nailing or assembling drawer boxes together often proves frustrating when trying to steady wobbly parts while keeping them aligned. This clamping aid adds stability to this ungainly process, and makes quick and accurate work of securely and squarely supporting the pieces when assembling drawer boxes.
No more wobbly tables or chairs with this simple to make and use leg-trimming jig. No matter how precisely you cut table legs to length, nor how carefully you glue up the legs, aprons, and top, you four-legged table may still rock or wobble a bit. Here is a simple way to wipe out wobble the first time.
With a large worksurface, an adjustable fence and stop, and storage space, this will be the last drill press table you will ever need. Plus it doubles as a drum sanding station with replaceable inserts and a built-in shop vacuum hookup. The cutting diagrams and materials list are available to download in this Online Extra.
Reliable and accurate crosscuts on a tablesaw require a miter-gauge extension with an adjustable stop. You will find many good miter-gauge extensions on the market, but you can make your own and save some cash in the process.
Plane edge banding to the exact thickness of your plywood, and then use these simple guides for perfect clamping alignment. In addition they really save the day when attaching the bands after a case is assembled and there is no room for error.
This well rounded add on to your bandsaw will cut circles from 2 to 44 inches in diameter. Rummage through your scrap bin and you will probably find enough wood pieces to make this handy circle cutting bandsaw jig. measures are provided in this one page plan but you can adjust to suit your own needs.
A sanding drum makes quick work of smoothing an edge profile rough-cut with a jig saw. You might think you need a drill press or spindle sander to keep the sanded edges square to the surface, but a corded electric drill, shop scraps, a few dollars worth of hardware, and a set of inexpensive sanding drums will do the trick too.
Without a special clamp, gluing up a mitered frame can be an exercise in frustration. When gluing up numerous frames in the shop, we created these simple glue-up jigs. You can make your own to fit any size frame. For the woodworker working alone, these clamping frames are a must.
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