How to Build a Sawbuck for Cutting Firewood

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Last Updated: August 17, 2023 Approved

One of the most useful tools for cutting firewood is a good "X" shaped sawbuck.

A sawbuck is a special kind of sawhorse framed for holding rough wood so you can saw it into lengths suitable for use in a stove or fireplace.

The sawbuck basically consists of two "X" forms -- one at each end -- which may be stabilized by a third (central) "X". The long firewood to be cut is placed in the top ("V") part of the "X" pieces where it may then be sawed.

Steps

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1
Select the size. Design the permanent sawbuck to be 6 vertical 2x4's (38 mm x 89 mm) or 2x6s (38 mm x 140mm) of about 4 feet (1.22 meters) long and 4 horizontal 2x6's 5 feet (1.52 meters) long using 3.5 inch (8.89 cm) wood screws or nails.^{[1]
X
Research source} (See "Tips" for information on making a demo/prototype version instead.)
- Cutting the top "V" form portion at an angle and with a shorter top would make it lighter and more open. Adding a trough or floor, as a retainer like feature, into the top "V" allows for a lower chance of shorter pieces of firewood unexpectedly falling from the inner part of the sawbuck to the ground.
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Tailor the design as you desire or require.
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Use suitable boards for your project. Nominal 2X6s or 2X4s of pine (southern yellow or lodgepole or white), or spruce will be fine.
- Decide if it is the taller or shorter height that you think you may want, namely, and cut the "X" pieces about 48 inches (1.22 meters) long.^{[2]
  X
  Research source}
- Adjust the height according to what feels right to you.^{[3]
  X
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Consider starting with one (the first) "X" temporarily attached together with two nails/screws to see how tall and wide that you want to make it.
- Take it apart and angle-cut and trim the angle of the "V" as shown in the photo above.^{[4]
  X
  Research source} Angled cutting of the "V" and making the upper "arms" shorter than the "legs" will make it less top-heavy. The arms help to hold poles and limbs to be cut on the sawbuck.
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Use this as your pattern for the rest.
- Feature: the upper "V" part being deep allows you to nestle and cut two or more narrow poles or tree limbs (around 3 to 8 feet (91.44 cm x 44 meters) in length) for cutting with a chainsaw to chop your firewood at a faster rate.
Make the sawbuck about only 20-24" (50.8 cm x 60.9 cm) high to the center. This will allow the user to put a foot on top of the poles or resulting in the split wood being cut when it is that low (as illustrated).
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Design a wide, heavily braced base to give you more stability while handling a chainsaw.
- Caution: A lightweight sawbuck might lead to an injury if it falls over while you are cutting. Don't use a smaller sawbuck for chainsaw work.
To build a non-folding sawbuck, simply connect the "X" forms together, using 4 to 6 nails/screws driven permanently into the near-center of each "X".

Method 1

Method 1 of 2:

Folding Sawbuck

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1
Make the sawbuck fold if you like. One way to connect the sawbuck together is to use one big bolt of about a 4 inch (10.16 cm) long, and 1/2 inch (12.7 mm) in diameter.^{[5]
X
Research source}
- You may find inexpensive [or free] long bolts, and nuts that fit them, on the ground in a self-service, automobile wrecking yard). Put it in the exact same placement at the center of each "X", using extra-large washers, so that it can be clamped together and loosened to fold for storage.
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Consider screwing on a leg spacer-brace on each "X". Then unscrew the end spacer-brace to allow the "X" to fold.
- Long, common bolts are not very expensive- they cost between $1 to $1.50 each at a lumber or hardware store. (But, tempered, hardened, fine threaded bolts cost about 4 to 5 times as much.)

Method 2

Method 2 of 2:

Rustic Method

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The rustic form shown here can be made in the field from available materials, following a similar process but with wooden poles instead.
- State parks and such probably do not allow any harvesting of wood, so this - building a sawbuck- is for private land or the untamed wilderness.

Community Q&A

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Question

If a sawbuck has 3 x's, is the distance between them the same, or is one section of the x narrower?

Community Answer

You would want one space smaller for those final cuts. Consider spacing based upon how long you want each length of your firewood to be.

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Question

How are the posts held together?

Community Answer

Bolts in the main frame and nails in the rest looks and works wonderfully.

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Question

How about one for bigger, heavier logs that fell in the yard? I need to get one end off ground a tad to cut, but it's really heavy?

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Top Answerer

One of the best hand tools for lifting a log off the ground for bucking is a "timberjack", which is a peavey lever with a 90-degree foot near the swinging hook. You jam the peavey into the ground next to the log and catch the log with the swing hook, pulling it toward you, to have it end up resting on the fixed leg, held by the swing hook. You may also simply pound a wedge under the end you want to lift, or use a peavey to lift one end and slide a block under it.

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Video

This is another kind of "sawbuck" for extending a miter saw table to support long pieces of wood/lumber for cutting with the miter saw. You could be able to cut the straighter limbs and poles for firewood with this kind of sawbuck, using your "miter saw".

Tips

For a sawbuck that is going to remain outdoors no matter the weather, you might choose to prefer lumber that is pressure treated to resist rot and insects.

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Possibly start with a demo, "prototype" version: Consider a temporary first version -- perhaps smaller and simpler than it might be ideally, with old scrap lumber from shipping pallets or other 1x4 or 1x6 boards, just to give you the chance to try out a suitable and preferable design and height.
- Add some extra bracing near the bottom and across the end of the legs for strength, weight and stability.
- Then, in a year or two, try a new improved design with 2x4s or 2x6s.
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Warnings

Avoid tipping the sawbuck over due to chainsaw kickback while cutting - the base should be built heavily enough to be stable.

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Ordinary head, hearing and eye protection should be adequate protection or as recommended by equipment manufactures when sawing lumber, poles, limbs and/or driving nails.

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