This Do-it-yourself projects category features a collection of DIY free woodworking plans to build many types of tablesaw accessories from woodworking related web sites. The woodworkers construction information found on these sites range in quantity and quality.
Switching between a standard blade and a dado blade on the table saw also means switching the throat insert. On top of that, different size dado blades require matching zero-clearance inserts. So rather than keep a stack of inserts on hand, I came up with a shop-made, one-size-fits-all insert.
It hit me that his Panel Cutting Table was really what I needed. Most of us have built or used something similar to Garys cutting table, it was his simple procedure for lifting the material onto the table that I had never thought of. Ingenious.
The Pencil Post Bed featured in Woodsmith No. 153 has posts that are over six and a half feet long. This jig makes cutting tapers and chamfers on those legs a whole lot easier. Although the jig is rather large, it is simple to make. You will find the instructions in the issue. The jig rides along the rip fence of the table saw to carry the leg past the blade. An indexing system makes it easy to rotate the leg precisely to cut both the tapers and the chamfers.
Recently, when tuning up my table saw, I discovered that the face of the rip fence was not square to the saw table. And there was no way to adjust it to remedy the problem. Rather than admit defeat, I decided to add an auxiliary fence to the rip fence that could be easily adjusted.
Whenever I would unplug my table saw, the loose cord left me hanging, so to speak. I did not want to leave it lying on the floor, in harms way, but I had no easy way to keep it contained. Eventually, I put a little idle shop time to good use and came up with the solution you see in the photo.
The opening in a zero-clearance insert is just a single saw kerf. And this gives you two main benefits. First, it prevents tearout along the cut line because the cut is supported on both sides. Second, it provides an added measure of safety when ripping thin pieces.
I like to use outfeed support when working with long stock. The problem is the support is never in the place I need it. So I built an adjustable outfeed roller and attached it to a small, roll-around shop cabinet.
Recently, I was building a project that required cutting inch wide grooves centered on the edge of some thick frame pieces. I mounted an inch dado blade in the table saw, and installed a dado blade insert. The only problem was the opening around the blade seemed huge. So big, in fact, I was concerned that the workpiece might actually tip down into the opening. That led me to build an L-shaped accessory that attaches to the rip fence on the table saw.
When trying to make very accurate cuts with my rip fence, I used to check the distance between the fence and my saw blade with a tape measure. But trying to hold the end of the tape against the rip fence and adjust it at the same time took more coordination than I could muster. So instead I made a simple set-up gauge for my rip fence.
I know I am not alone in my disregard for the splitter/blade guard assemblies that come with most table saws. The splitters are flimsy, the blade guards are always in the way, etc. I am sure I am also not alone in my penchant for working in the shop beyond...
...recently, I came up with an idea that avoids the hassle of fiddling around with clamps. Instead I use a magnetic stop block. It is just a hardwood block with a pair of small magnetic catches inserted into one edge...
When it comes to cutting tenons on the end of a workpiece, I usually use the table saw fitted with a dado blade. The problem with this method is that the cheeks of the tenons can end up pretty rough.
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