More woodworking related jigs that you can shake a stick at! Accessories for the tablesaw, bandsaw, workbench and worktables, drill and sander jigs, and so much more. Check out the other free woodworking plans categories also.
A miter saw is a handy tool around the shop for a number of jobs. But what if you need to make angled cuts beyond 45 degrees? My solution was to build a jig that held the workpiece perpendicular to the fence on the miter saw.
Using a miter gauge to cut multiple pieces to identical length on a table saw is easy if the pieces are fairly short. I just clamp a stop block to a wood fence attached to the miter gauge. But if the pieces are too long, I have always had trouble cutting them to identical lengths. So I ...
Thin strips should be cut on a table saw with the wide board against the fence and the fence moved in for each cut, however it is difficult to accurately adjust the fence for each strip to be the same thickness. This gauge allows you to simply...
This is a link to a Google 3D SketchUp drawing for a jig to cut housings in timbers with a router and a dado bit. You will need the SketchUp software to download this drawing and its freely available online. We do not provide support for this software. Not all drawings have the measurements displayed but you can use the measurement tool in SketchUp to easily and accurately determine the dimensions of each lumber part. Most drawings do not have instructions, its assumed you can build it based on the completed drawing provided.
The challenge is forming a nice cutting edge, or burr, on the scraper. You can do this freehand, but to do it consistently, I find it best to use a scraper-sharpening jig, like this one. It has a number of features that make it the perfect choice for super-tuning your scraper.
Sanding discs tend to curl up when not in use. I find this a real hassle when trying to place a PSA (pressure sensitive adhesive) or hook and loop disc on my sander, especially if I don not get it on straight the first time. So I came up with a small shop jig that helps keep them flat.
This is a free online video for the sliding hold-down jig as it appears in the ShopNotes Magazine Issue No. 96. When ripping narrow strips or cutting a rabbet along the edge of a workpiece, it is sometimes hard to keep the board flat against the saw table. And if you use the featherboard, it can get in the way.
I used to trim dovetails with a chisel or a belt sander. However, using the chisel was slow work, and the belt sander made it too easy to round the corners or gouge the face of my workpiece. I found a better solution using my router, a straight bit, and a simple auxiliary router base that I made from scrap stock.
While installing the handrail on my newly constructed deck, I found that the 45 degree miters I had so carefully cut did not fit tightly together. As it turned out, a variation in the deck meant that the boards came together at an angle slightly less than 90 degree.
Drilling holes in small pieces can be hard to do on a drill press. If you try to hold them with your hand, they want to spin when the bit breaks through the back side. So to prevent this, I made an auxiliary table to hold small pieces securely, as you can see in the photo.
The pocket hole joint is one of the easiest joints to make. This joint is much faster and simpler than dowel joints because you only drill the hole in one of the pieces you need to join. You simply apply some glue, clamp the pieces together, and insert the screw.
Cutting multiple short dowel pins can be tedious work. So I made a simple dowel pin cutting jig to speed things up. This jig only takes a few minutes to make and set up on your table saw. Then it is easy to quickly cut dowels to equal length without measuring.
The drum sander on my drill press works great for sanding curves but it produces lots of dust. So to collect the dust, I slip the hose from my shop vacuum into a bracket attached to the column of the drill press, as shown in the photo. Besides keeping the hose steady during use, the bracket is easy to adjust. This way, you can put the end of the hose right where you need it.
There is nothing that symbolizes machinery like gears. Seeing that I like to make machines out of wood, it follows then that I should want some of these machines to have gears on them. Wooden gears, of course. [Editor Note: This link does not have much in the way of measurements, but still useful info.]
After cutting a snug-fitting mortise for a butt hinge, you have one more challenge to face. You still have to drill the pilot holes for the screws. It sounds easy, but I often have trouble centering the pilot holes so that the hinge is held squarely in the mortise.
I make a lot of small picture frames for gifts. But there is a couple of challenges: mitering the small pieces accurately and holding them safely. So I have made a jig designed to help with this. It is nothing more than a shallow box attached to a miter gauge runner.
This is a link to a Google 3D SketchUp drawing for a tablesaw jig. You will need the SketchUp software to download this drawing and its freely available online. We do not provide support for this software. Not all drawings have the measurements displayed but you can use the measurement tool in SketchUp to easily and accurately determine the dimensions of each lumber part. Most drawings do not have instructions, its assumed you can build it based on the completed drawing provided.
Getting bars and pulls centered perfectly on the front faces of drawers can be a challenge. So to locate and drill the mounting holes quickly and accurately, I made the simple drilling template thatâs shown at [this link].
Recently, I was building the Cottage-style dresser featured in the June 2002 issue of Workbench. To dress-up the drawer fronts, I wanted to use small strips of half-round molding. The trick was trying to position the strips on each false drawer front so that they aligned from one drawer to the next.
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