More woodworking related jigs that you can shake a stick at! Accessories for the tablesaw, bandsaw, workbench and worktables, drill and sander jigs, and so much more. Check out the other free woodworking plans categories also.
This is a link to a Google 3D SketchUp drawing for an adjustable router mortising jig. You will need the SketchUp software to download this drawing and its freely available online. We do not provide support for this software. Not all drawings have the measurements displayed but you can use the measurement tool in SketchUp to easily and accurately determine the dimensions of each lumber part. Most drawings do not have instructions, its assumed you can build it based on the completed drawing provided.
Here are seven great ways to make your three most-used power tools more accurate, more versatile and a lot more fun. They include circular saw jigs, drill jigs, and router jigs. Just scroll down the page for all the information.
Here are two photos of a jig I built for my router in less than half an hour. The two 1/4 inches threaded rods screw into the router base (they come from another off-the-shelf jig.) The wooden block is just some random piece of hardwood scrap.
The instructions listed below are for a sled that fits into the left mitre slot of the table saw and is for a blade that tilts to the right AWAY from the sled. If your saw has a left tilt arbor, reverse all the directions and drawings mentally to build a sled that fits into the right mitre slot. Easiest way to look at this to build the sled so that blade tilts away from sled. Shall we begin?
I have found that a bench hook that mounts over the edge of the workbench is a great way to hold a workpiece in place. But the traditional bench hook that I was using had one annoying fault. It would not always stay put. A sudden tip or slide along the bench was a common occurance. So I came up with the new and improved corner inches hook that you see here.
I like drilling shelf pin holes in the top, bottom, and both sides of a box so that it can be used vertically or horizontally. But that means aligning and spacing of all those holes becomes fairly critical. After all, you do not want crooked or wobbly shelves. Nothing works better for uniform spacing than a layout jig.
This jig allows for evenly spaced shelf holes, if they have to be drilled with a hand drill in a pre-assembled unit. Only the position of the top holes on each side have to be marked, once they are drilled a pin goes into those holes through the top hole in the stepping block and the next hole is drilled.
The work tables on most drill presses are designed for working with metal. For working with wood, we need a larger work surface and a more versatile way to clamp the work piece. This table, by use of T-Track , hold down clamps, and toggle clamps permits accurate clamping and positioning of the work piece.
Crosscuts and miters are easy to cut on a table saw with the help of a miter gauge. But cutting a compound miter is a little more of a challenge. That is because you have to tilt the saw blade and then adjust the miter gauge to make this cut. Instead, I like to use a slightly easier method for cutting accurate compound miters.
This jig requires one piece of hardwood 3/4 inches square X 5 1/2 inches inches long and one piece 3/4 inches X 2 1/2 inches X 5 1/2 inches long. Mark off the 5 1/2 inches long piece as shown below, clamp it to the 3/4 inches X 2 1/2 inches piece, 1 1/2 inches from the top edge and drill the four 1/4 inches holes. It would be best to use a drill press for this if possible as the holes should be square.
In issue 165 of Woodsmith magazine, you will find these intriguing L-shaped shelves. Each of the corners is mitered and is reinforced with a biscuit. If you have a biscuit joiner, great. But if you do not, you can use this jig to cut slots on the router table and then use hardboard splines instead of biscuits.
I have always been frustrated with the difficulty in gluing, and especially clamping 45 degree miter joints. On this page, I describe the best method of gluing such joints I have found yet. I do not consider this method to be very good, just the best that I have figured out so far.
Recently I had to cut a series of evenly spaced dadoes across the sides of some small display shelves I was making. I wanted to make the dadoes on my router table, and I needed a way to space them evenly. That is when I came up with the idea for an auxiliary table fitted with an index pin.
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